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European Wine Tasting July 15, 2004
Palacios Rioja Placet
2002 Spain
Casa
Castillo Jumilla Monestrall
2002 Spain
Onix Priorato 2001 Spain Vinícola del Priorat was set up in 1991. It has 125 wine-growing members who cultivate 310 vineyards covering a total area of 205 hectares. Small holdings and low yields are a consequence of the hilly terrain of the Priorat, with vineyards on slopes of up to 30%, infertile shale soil and the advanced age of the vines (average is 60 years). "Most wines from Priorato fetch prices from $50-$300 a bottle, so this inexpensive offering from this increasingly esteemed appellation is welcome relief. Made from a blend of Grenache and Carignan, this dense, thick, uncomplicated, chewy, medium to full-bodied wine exhibits excellent ripeness, plenty of blackberry and cherry liqueur-like fruit, intriguing mineral, pepper, and spice notes, and a chunky, husky finish." Robert Parker
Quinta do Alqueve Ribatejano l’Ancestral 2001 Portugal Quinta do Alqueve, in the Ribetajo region of Portugal has been reviewed by native wine journalists as one of the best young wineries in the country. Approximately 40 miles north of Lisbon, nearly 100 acres of tightly spaced vineyards were planted 20 years ago in the sandy, dry, calcareous soil. In addition to Syrah, Cunha has also planted the traditional grape varieties that originate from the region of Porto, including Touriga Nacional, Periquita and Tinto Roriz, better known as Tempranillo. Yields are severely controlled, crop-thinning is done twice each season and all the fruit is picked by hand and hand-sorted before vinification. The total quantities of wine available from this terrific property will be limited by the low yields the vineyards produce and the careful selection process that is done for these bottlings. L’Ancestral is a blend of traditional varietals, a bigger, more structured wine, featuring a predominance of Touriga Nacional complimented by Tinta Roriz and Periquita. Entirely aged in small barrels of which 1/3 were new. The color is very dark. A solid core of plummy fruit in the nose is intertwined with interesting notes of minerals and spice. A bigger, more structured wine than the Tradicional, with more intensely focused flavors that turn smoky and more vibrant on the finish. Chewy tannins backstop the incredible fruit concentration.
Perrone Barbera d’Asti Grivot 2002 Italy100% Barbera. Vigna Grivò is the most exacting and exuberant wine of this company. The low yields (30hl/ha) together with a careful selection while harvesting and ageing 7 months in French oak barrels (60% new) results in a wine that balances great structure with soft, vibrant fruit. Only 600 cases produced.
Fondreche Cotes de Ventoux Rose l’Instant 2003
France
Jayer Gilles Bourgogne Aligote 2001 France "One of the stars of Burgundy, Robert Jayer has begun the decade of the nineties with what appear to be the finest wines he has ever made. No one makes better Hautes Cotes de Nuits and Cote de Nuits-Villages than Jayer. As the numbers attest, these are thrilling, even amazing wines." Robert Parker
Burgaud Morgon Cote du Puy 2002 FranceThe Beaujolais selections from Jean-Marc Burgaud are produced from estate vineyards located on the volcanic hillsides of the Cote du Py. This Grand Cru Beaujolais exhibits the intensity of fruit and character typical of old style, artisinally made Gamay wines. Bottled unfiltered, wines like these will remind you why Beaujolais has historically been considered a part of Burgundy. "I believe this is a Beaujolais that will repay cellaring." Robert Parker Ambroise Bourgogne 2001 France
“My friends that live for California Cabernets and the reds of Bordeaux consistently adore the wines of Bertrand Ambroise. These are not subtle, elegant, cherry and strawberry-filled wines, but rather, are dark, boisterous bruisers that make their presence felt through their power and intensity. Ambroise does not filter his whites and neither fines nor filters his reds. Both are left on their lees for a year and see 100% new oak." Robert Parker
Ch Thieuley Bordeaux Superiore Courselle Reserve 2001 FranceThe estate has existed since 1880 but, the Courcelle family has been making wine here since 1950. Francis Courcelle, a former professor from the Lycée Agricole de Balnquefort, manages the estate and makes the wines. The estate first planted red vines in 1972 on vineyards of clay and gravel soil and now has 40 hectares planted to 20% Cabernet Franc, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 60% Merlot. 30 hectares of white grapes are also grown in the hamlet of La Sauve in Entre-Deux-Mers, planted to 50% Semillon and 50% Sauvignon Blanc. A modernist winemaker, Francis Courcelle abides by a formula of skin contact, barrel fermentation (20% for one of his regular Cuvée and 100% for Monsieur Courcelle), and as much lees contact as possible. Monsieur Courcelle is thought to be one of the key players in restoring the image and popularity of Entre-Deux-Mers.
Fondreche Cotes du Ventoux Fayard 2002 France
Santa Duc Cairanne les Buissons 2001 France If one grower can be said to have put Gigondas on the map then that would be Yves Gras at Santa Duc. Yves took over the domaine upon the retirement of his father in 1985, previously the entire production was sold in bulk to the négociants. The estate comprises nineteen hectares of vineyards with ten hectares in Gigondas itself. A strong believer in Mourvedre, Yves has slowly replanted many of his vineyards and now has around 30% in total. Here, everything is done to limit yields, including removal of excess bunches in July. Defoliation of the vines also enables the grapes to absorb more sunlight and helps to eliminate the danger of rot in the Autumn. Yves harvests late and personally sorts the good grapes from the bad as they are picked. In the cellars the grapes are not de-stemmed and only lightly crushed before fermentation. The wines undergo a long maceration, frequently over a month “There are some other brilliant wines made in Gigondas, but readers will not find anything better than Santa Duc's two cuvees. The Cairanne reveals the southern Rhone's rustic, animal side with high tannin, a distinctive loamy/earthy component, good body, excellent depth and a certain rusticity. ...this distcinctive effort will drink well for 4-5 years." Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #151
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