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A comment was made to me the other day that I found quite astounding; “are people really buying expensive Malbec these days?” This comment not only surprised me, but shocked me. Though Malbec is not the most widely known varietal produced, it is a varietal that when made well has great depth, distinction and character. And, it is different. You can go anywhere these days and find a Cabernet Sauvignon….and often enough one will taste exactly like the other. Not that Cabs are bad, I love them, but they are so widely produced by so many wineries both all over the country, and all over the world. Everyone tries to make a wine from Cabernet grapes, not everyone attempts Malbec. Malbec was one of the original grapes in a great Bordeaux blend. It along with it’s sister varietals of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (and to a much lesser extent Carmerere) blended to produce some of the greatest red wines in the world. Malbec is now the premier grape of Argentina, standing solidly on it’s own on occasion, and being blended in others creating wine with depth and finesse that will rival any big, bold red in the world. Several of these fantastic Malbec wines have started appearing on shelves of Dallas restaurants and wine shops. One in particular is the Taymente Malbec, it is 100% Malbec, with 50% of the wine aged for 6-8 months in new French and American oak barrels. It is a complex wine with vibrant aromas of plums, sweet spices like cinnamon and nutmeg and chocolate. It also imparts a slight earthy quality revealing respect for the land in the Mendoza region of Argentina that the grapes are grown in. It is a fantastic wine, and a perfect accompaniment to hearty beef dishes. Another single varietal Malbec is produced by, and labeled as Familia Marguery. Only 700 cases were made in 2003 of the Familia Marguery 100% Malbec, which is aged up to one year in French oak barrels, and then another 6 months in the bottle. Aging the wine gives it intricacy, allowing some of the tannins in the wine to dissipate, leaving a deep plum color with floral violet and Morello cherry aromas. The palate contains more of these cherry flavors, along with a hint of black pepper and cassis. The end is velvety and smooth, with an elegant lingering finish. The Lorca Poetico Malbec is a wonderful blend of 85% Malbec, with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Syrah. Only a touch of oak is used here, and all second use (not using brand new barrels softens the character that the oak will impart on the wine, giving very subtle and not intense flavors of vanilla, chocolate and coffee.) The addition of the Cabernet and Syrah round out the deep red fruit flavors of plums and cherries, adding a hint of pepper to the wine. Las Perdices Reserva is another example of a complex and creative Malbec blend. The hand- harvested wine is a blend of 70% Malbec, 11% Syrah, 10% Bonarda and 9% Merlot. Bonarda is the most widely planted grape in Argentina with roots aging back to Italy. It is an earthy, cherry filled wine that when blended with the plumy Malbec, the gamey, spicy Syrah and the fruity Merlot creates a multifaceted wine filled with mocha, vanilla, coffee and fruit with a full bodied finish. And a particular favorite of mine is the Enrique Foster Limited Edition Malbec. Each bottle of the estate grown and bottled Malbec is numbered. The grapes are meticulously chosen from old vines with restricted production. Limiting the growth of the varietal creates grapes with intense flavor and sweetness. 100% of the wine is aged in new French oak barrels for up to 15 months, and then an additional 8 months in the bottle. The wine is a beautiful deep purple color, with intense cherry, blackberry and licorice aromas. The palate is more of this, with an additional layer of sweet spice and velvety tannins. It is a stand out Malbec that will stand up well to a French Burgundy or California Cabernet. Cheers, |
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